Sunday, November 29, 2009

Winter Adventures

Did you know?
Sitting in a nice hot sauna at the gym today I was conversing with a guy who was excitedly conveying his plans for a three day winter camping trip with his dog, a Rottweiler/Doberman mix. I must admit, I was jealous. I remember the days when I had the freedom to take off for a few days into the silence and solitude of the back country on snowshoes. I never got to take a dog along, but that certainly would have been the cherry on the ice cream sundae for the soul. However, I digress. What I really want to write about are the precautions to take when bringing your four-legged friend on a winter adventure.

You may not be quite the die hard fan of winter to want to do a snow camping trip, but even if you decide to take your dog on a winter walk in the snow there are some things to consider, especially if the temperatures are in the teens or below.

Let me tell you why.
Some dogs are more sensitive to the cold than others. Small breeds, short haired dogs, puppies and geriatric dogs, dogs that are normally "indoor" pets, and those with heart or other medical conditions are all more sensitive to colder temperatures. A dog's normal body temperature is between 99.5 and 102.5. When a dog fitting one of the above descriptions is exposed to colder temperatures he or she often has a difficult time keeping his/her core body temperature within the normal range. When the temperature dips below the normal range hypothermia sets in. Hypothermia means that your dog is loosing body heat faster than it can be replaced.

Signs of hypothermia:
- shivering
- lethargy
- stiff muscles
- pale or gray gums
- stumbling or lack of coordination
- fixed and dilated pupils
- low heart and breathing rates
- collapse
- or even coma

With mild hypothermia your dog is likely to be shivering and appear lethargic. As the hypothermia increases in severity the other symptoms become evident - effectively your dog becomes increasingly unresponsive as his body goes into heat conservation mode. At this time your dog's focus will be on keeping his vital organs working by restricting the blood flow to all but these parts of his body. If it's not treated, hypothermia can be fatal.

Prevention is Key
Dogs sensitive to cold should be kept inside with quick potty breaks outside. The small dogs and short haired breeds benefit from a doggy jacket that helps to keep their core warm. Booties may also be a good idea for three reasons. One, lots of heat escapes through a dogs foot pads. The booties can help decrease the heat loss. Two, dogs with long hair often get ice balls caught in the hair between the toes. The ice balls can be irritating and your dog may stop every few minutes to chew at the balls of snow. Three, if there is a layer of ice on top of the snow; the jagged edges can actually cut your dogs pads. That is rare here in Colorado, but might be more likely at higher elevations with repeated melting and freezing.

Treatment
Mild hypothermia can be reversed by getting back in a warm environment and wrapping your dog with a blanket until the shivering stops. Hypothermia that has dropped the dogs temperature to the 90-94 degree range will require rewarming methods. Water bottles filled with warm water placed around your dog deliver a warm heat source that is safe. Stay away from heating pads as it is easy to burn your dog's skin and cause a hot spot. It is recommended that you take your animal to your family veterinarian or veterinary emergency service for observation and/or treatment if you need to treat for hypothermia. Severe hypothermia requires immediate veterinary intervention. Unfortunately, it may be difficult to reverse the damage at this level of hypothermia, but we can hope for the best.

Fortunately the gentleman at the gym was aware of the potential dangers for his dog from winter camping and was prepared. He had two dog jackets, was prepared to have his dog sleep with him, and knew the signs and treatment for hypothermia. He volunteered that he would willingly cut his trip short if his dog didn't seem to be able to handle the cold weather. I hope for both their sakes that their trip is peaceful and refreshing and is just the beginning of a many more adventures together.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Giving Thanks this Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is a great holiday.
We are coming to the end of a year that has been difficult. Economic fears have become reality for many people and businesses, and lots of folks are feeling the pinch. But at the end of the day, in the midst of the worries and stresses of daily life, it's great to walk through the door to a friendly greeting. The tail wags, entangled feet, wet kisses, and cold noses remind us that we can be thankful for the unconditional love of pets.

So this Thanksgiving, whether you are gathering with lots of family and friends or warming up a Hungry Man dinner, be sure to give your dog or cat a little bit of turkey and lots of love. Then start thinking of all the things you can be thankful for. You'll be surprised that even the simplest things, when added together, make up quite a list. We could all use a little bit of giving thanks this Thanksgiving.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Monday, November 16, 2009

H1N1 and Pets

Did you know?
It's true, the headlines declaring a cat was diagnosed with H1N1 have been confirmed. But what does that mean for you and your feline friend?

Until recently, experts believed that, with the exception of birds and pet pigs, our pets were not susceptible to the H1N1 virus. In fact, we don't generally worry about our pets with any of the common seasonal flu strains. Now, several cases of H1N1 in ferrets, one cat that tested positive for the virus, and another reported case in a cat, have shown that human transmission of the bug to our pets is possible. So, even though pets bring us lots of comfort, it is best to avoid sleeping or snuggling with your pets if you are ill with flu like symptoms.

The good news is that like most people, it appears that this flu causes a mild illness in pets. Both cats survived and have recovered from the virus. Treatment for pets that contract H1N1 are supportive care and antibiotics if a secondary bacterial infection is present.

Your family veterinarian, the Veterinarians here at VRCC, the AVMA, and the CDC are all continuing to monitor H1N1 in order to make sure pets and people say protected. If pets were especailly susceptible, we would expect infection rates that mirrored the human population.

If your pet is showing any signs of illness, such as lethargy, fever, and runny nose, call your family veterinarian to schedule an exam. Or, if it is after hours, the Veterinarians and technicians at CVES are happy to see you and your pet to relieve your concerns and provide any care that is necessary for your animal.

As Leonardo da Vinci so elegantly stated, "the smallest feline is a masterpiece".

For additional information on the H1N1 virus and pets visit the AVMA website.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Loosing Your Lunch

Did you know?
Unfortunately, animals can eat the darndest things at the worst possible times! Say for instance your cat eats your nylons, one of your dogs eats a tennis ball, and the other dog gets into some chocolate. Yikes! I certainly understand that you might want to avoid a veterinary bill and choose to turn to the internet to look for ways to make your pet(s) vomit without having to leave your home. You may find a solution, but it may not be the wisest choice.

Let me tell you why.
Most veterinarians will not routinely recommend at-home use of emetics (medicines to cause vomiting). The time it takes to find the substance, corral the animal, and administer the dosage may take as long, or longer, than the ride to the vet. Plus, at-home administration may just prolong the proper medical care the animal needs.

For one thing, when an animal swallows an object it might be dangerous to have it come back out the way it got in. For example, take the scenario of your dog eating a tennis ball. Causing him to vomit could lodge the ball in his esophagus and cause him to choke. Or, if an animal eats a particularly sharp object like a broken chicken bone, a pencil, or a piece of glass, the object has the potential of inflicting more harm on the animals body on the way back out. The solution for that type of ingestion could be to have the animal eat a lot of fiber (canned pumpkin, rice, bread) to "bulk up" and wrap around the object so it comes safely out the other end. Either way, call your family veterinarian first to find out if vomiting up the substance, or object, is safe for the animal.

Also, you may not know that it is very difficult to get a cat to vomit. Even with emetic medications available to veterinarians cats are a finicky bunch about regurgitating their lunch. Dogs are a bit more amenable, but I've seen a few dogs also unphased by the medications to make them sick.

The internet is abundant with recommendations for using hydrogen peroxide, ipecac syrup or salt as a means of causing an animal to vomit, thereby removing the toxic or dangerous substance he or she has ingested. Let's examine each of these substances for their pro's and con's.

Hydrogen Peroxide: The most common recommendation is to use 3% hydrogen peroxide (H202) in a dose of 1 teaspoon per 10 lbs of body weight for the animal. If it is successful, hydrogen peroxide should cause vomiting within 10 minutes. Never administer the dose more than twice in a row. Overdosing with hydrogen peroxide can have the unfortunate affect of making the dog vomit excessively; which could lead to dehydration and land the animal in the hospital for fluid therapy and administration of an anti-emetic to stop the vomiting. At best, hydrogen peroxide is effective as an emetic 50% of the time. So you could administer the dose and still need to bring the animal to your veterinarian for care since the toxic substance or object is still inside.

Ipecac Syrup: Most parents of small children have Ipecac syrup in the medicine chest for emergency use, so you may have some on hand. But, it is similar to hydrogen peroxide in causing the desired outcome - it works about 50% of the time. It is also difficult to administer because of the bitter taste. Most notably, if the animal does not vomit, the syrup still needs to be removed because of the potential for negative cardiovascular side affects. Ipecac syprup should induce vomiting within 10 - 30 minutes, although it can be delayed up to an hour.

Table Salt: The use of table salt as an emetic in dogs and cats is generally frowned upon because of the potential for causing more harm than good. The maximum dosage in dogs and cats is 1 to 3 teaspoons and usually induces vomiting within 10 to 15 minutes. However, if the salt does not cause vomiting the increased sodium levels can cause acute swelling of the brain and even death. Not a good outcome!

Veterinary Emetics: Veterinarians usually use one of two medicines to make animals vomit - Apomorphine or Xylazine. The apomorphine can be used for dogs or cats while the Xylazine is used only in cats. Apomorphine (Apo) has about a 90% success rate in dogs. Veterinarians also have another drug to counter the effects of the Apo to stop the vomiting if needed. The percentage of success in cats tends to be lower. Fortunately cats are less likely to get into toxic substances that requires them to vomit.

About 20 minutes after the animal has vomited, activated charcoal is administered for patients who got into a toxic substance. The activated charcoal helps to absorb more of the toxin since on average only about 70% of the toxin is vomited up - another reason to at least end treatment with your veterinarian if you choose to try one of the at-home remedies.

Overall, a trip to the vet is still the wisest choice. You may get lucky by administering one of these at home remedies and have a great outcome, but our veterinarians don't recommend you take the chance.

The moral of the story...hope you weren't eating lunch

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Consider Pet Insurance

Did you know?
It's no secret that veterinary fees have increased significantly over the last ten years and will continue to do so to keep pace with the cost of doing business. Still, when you consider that the education, technology, medicines and protocols are all very similar in scope and cost to human medicine, then veterinary medicine is a bargain. But a major difference is payment requirements. Co-pays and billing options for human medicine have softened the cost for office visits and made access to care more available. In comparison, pet medical care requires payment up front for the full invoice and the price tag can come as a shock, especially in the case of an emergency.

Pet savings plans in theory are great, but very few people have the discipline and foresight to create a special account for pet medical bills. Saving even $40 a month will take a pet owner 6 years to save enough to cover an emergency surgery if your dog gets hit by a car or blows out a knee. But where does that leave you, the pet owner?

The pet insurance industry has been around since the early 80's, but pet owners and veterinarians have been resistant to using or advocating pet health insurance policies. Historically pet owners have found it hard to see a significant benefit for the cost and veterinarians have strongly resisted the idea of networks and the headaches found in human health care. But as prices increase and the bond between people and their pets strengthens more people are looking for a way to cover their costs and help ensure that a medical emergency doesn't become a life or death decision because of money. As a result there has been an increase in the number of pet health insurance companies. While there are similarities in practice between companies, there can be wide variations in the details of the policies they offer. So how do you choose the best pet insurance for your animals that fits your budget?

Let me tell you how.
I was surprised at the number of pet health insurance companies in the industry when I started researching available policies. Currently I know of eleven companies that insure in Colorado and there seems to be new providers popping up every year.

Covered vs. Excluded
All the companies I looked at exclude coverage for pre-existing conditions. But you really have to read the fine print to know the definition of pre-existing conditions. For example, some companies will insure a condition or incident in one benefit year, but upon renewal that condition or incident becomes a pre-existing condition. The condition is then excluded from coverage or a 180 day waiting period must expire before the condition is eligible for coverage.

Hereditary conditions are another stickler. I am aware of one company who will provide limited coverage for hereditary conditions as long as the pet is insured by age 2; while other companies won't cover hereditary conditions at all. The broadest coverage for hereditary conditions seems to be provided by PurinaCare whose literature states that "hereditary conditions are considered to be qualifying medical expenses if they are not pre-existing".

Then there are the categories of conditions that are covered only by purchasing supplemental coverage. For example, reimbursement for Hip Dysplasia requires a separate rider with Trupanion; and VPI requires purchase of an Enhanced Cancer Rider for cancer treatment coverage. I strongly recommend reading a sample policy before enrolling in a plan to be fully aware of the type of coverage your premium will buy.

Deductible and Coinsurance
You'll want to decide what type and level of deductible you can afford. Deductibles are either annual, or by incident, e.g. all visits and treatments related to a hit-by-car accident on a specific date. Deductibles range from $0 to $1000 and your monthly premium is directly proportional to the size of deductible you choose. Once you meet your deductible, reimbursement for veterinary medical expenses is usually stated as a percentage. A common level of reimbursement is 80% of our veterinary bill after deductible for illnesses, accidents and injuries. Companies with a fee schedule will only pay the stated amount per type of injury, illness, or treatment. This may still be a good option, but you should be familiar with the amount of coverage ahead of time.

Limits
Insurance companies are required to keep a certain amount of money in reserve based on the limits of coverage stated in their policy and the number of lives insured. The limit can be stated as a per incident limit, annual limit, and/or lifetime limit of coverage. When comparing plans consider that an incident can involve multiple types of care and treatment. An example might be an animal that gets hit by a car and comes in to the ER on a Saturday morning then needs an emergency splenectomy followed by a transfer to Internal Medicine for several days of hospital care. Then after being discharged from the hospital bandage changes may be necessary. This typical type of case could easily add up to $5,000. At 80% coverage your reimbursement would be $3600 (after you meet your $500 deductible); unless your incident limit is $1500. Then the most you could be reimbursed is $1500; an important factor to keep in mind.

Accident, Illness, Wellness

One of the biggest decisions will be between an accident and illness only plan versus one that includes coverage for a wellness or routine care plan. Most wellness plans are paid by benefit schedule, meaning there is a set dollar amount the company will pay for the services such as the annual exam, vaccinations, or heartworm test. Each benefit schedule varies and it might be beneficial to compare the listed reimbursement allowed against the cost of those services by your family veterinarian before deciding if paying for coverage is cost effective.

Discounts
Some companies provide discounts for covering multiple pets. Discounts range from 5 to 15% off the premium depending on the number of animals insured. Other discounts might include 5% for microchipping or a small discount for paying the premium annually instead of monthly.

Monthly Premium
Pet insurance premiums are based on policy type, deductible, zip code, and species, breed, and age of your pet. Premiums can range from $5 to $250 per month based on the previously mentioned factors and the number of pets insured. You choose what works best for your monthly budget. Most likely your final decision will be determined by the premium, but be careful to look at the full picture to make sure you get the best value for the premium paid.

Recommendations
I just threw a lot of information at you all at once, kind of like getting sprayed by a fire hose. Let me turn down the dial a bit and give you the website of a company I would recommend. PurinaCare started offering policies just over a year ago. While they are new on the market, their brand has been around for many years and provides a solid reputation. PurinaCare offers two options PurinaCare Plus Preventive Care or PurinaCare without Preventive Care. Both are detailed on their website where you can also get a personalized quote.

Consider an accident only plan similar to those offered by ASPCA or Embrace. This sort of plan will cover things like bloat, foreign body ingestion, hit by car, poisoning, cuts and lacerations. The type of thing you always hope will never happen, but when they do seem to happen at the worse times.

Here are a couple websites where you can compare plans side by side:

Dr. Kay's book "Speaking for Spot" also includes a chapter on pet health insurance and has some great questions to consider in your search process.

AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) gives the seal of acceptance to three companies. You'll find details on their website.

The moral of the story...protect your wallet and your pets' life, consider pet insurance.