New Year = New You...and "Lucky" Too!

Are you looking ahead to the New Year with some goals in mind? Perhaps the idea of weight loss or increased exercise is on your list. Before embarking on your new routine consider making the task more fun by adding "Lucky" to your plans. What better encouragement could you ask for?

According to AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association), a 2008 study by the Association for Pet Obesity and Prevention showed that more than 44% of dogs in America are considered overweight - about 33 million. If your dog is part of the statistic, now is the time to get him moving.

AAHA has created a tool for a 2010 New Year's Resolution for you and your pet to resolve to get in shape. A signature and a paw print mark your commitment to a healthy new year. To download your own copy just click over to the AAHA website .

There are lots more health and fitness tips for you and your dog in Dogs Lose Lbs! You Win!, also available through AAHA. To order your own copy click here.

While on the AAHA site you might also spend some time on the www.healthypet.com website for fun and useful information for all pet owners.

Happy New Year!

Happy Holidays

Central Veterinary Emergency Services will be open from 2 pm on Christmas Eve until 8 am on Monday, December 28. Hopefully all will be well and we won't see you, but rest assured that we will be here should an unforeseen event with one of your four-legged friends change your holiday plans.

Reflect upon your present blessings of which every man has many...
- Charles Dickens

Baby, It's Cold Outside!

Did you know?
We've just come out of a cold snap in Colorado with temperatures in the teens and single digits and wind chill below zero. Other areas of the country are still in the middle of a deep freeze. You may have noticed your four legged family members being just as hesitant as you to roam outside for long in these temps. It is a misnomer that an animal should be able to withstand really cold temperatures just because it has fur without conditioning or special gear. I've covered this topic a bit already in the post titled "Winder Adventures", but let's consider a few other dangers that pop up in the cold weather months.

Small Vs. Big, Short Vs. Long
Although some pets are conditioned to cold weather, veterinary experts agree that you should bring outdoor pets indoors if the temperature drops below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Puppies, kittens, and short haired pets should come inside anytime the temperature goes below 40 degrees. Long haired pets do have a bit of an advantage, but proper grooming is essential to help them maintain a layer of warming air within their coat. Pets who are heavily matted cannot keep themselves as warm.

Shelter
If your pet must stay outdoors, be sure to provide shelter for your pet. A good "house" will have three enclosed sides, will be elevated off the ground, and will contain generous amounts of bedding such as straw or hay. In cold weather, bigger is not always better. A house just big enough for your pet will warm up faster and retain heat better than something that is too big. Your pet will need access to fresh water that isn't frozen. Use heated water bowls and replenish them frequently.

Antifreeze
Antifreeze is a common and deadly pet poisoning during colder months. If you suspect your pet has consumed any antifreeze at all, you must contact your veterinarian immediately! Antifreeze has a sweet taste to pets, so they will readily lap up any spilled material. If you spill antifreeze, dilute the area well with water and sweep excess water into a rocky or sandy area. Cover area with soil to keep pets from licking at the rocks. Read my post on a pet friendly Antifreeze alternative.

Cars and Pets
Cats love to warm up underneath car hoods. If your car is kept outdoors, or if cats have access to your garage, be sure to pound on the hood of the car prior to turning the ignition. Many cats are killed or injured grievously by fan belts and moving engine parts. Also, pets should not be left alone in vehicles due to the potential for carbon monoxide poisoning or hypothermia.

Hypothermia
Our pets suffer from frostbite and hypothermia just like we do. Consider keeping dogs on a leash when they go outside. Many curious dogs off leash will explore "frozen" retention ponds, lakes or streams and fall through the ice into frigid water. I cover signs and treatment of hypothermia in the "Winter Adventures" post.

Heat Source Cautions
You may encourage your dog or cat to warm up by a wood-burning stove, fireplace, or space heater. Be very careful to monitor your animal around any of these heat sources. They can cause severe burns. If your animal is mobile, let him move away from the heat when he's had enough. For non-mobile pets keep the animal a safe distance away and turn its body every 5 minutes to allow the area near the heat source to cool off.

Arthritis
Older pets may suffer more from arthritis during these months. You might consider providing warm, raised bedding to decrease the exposure to cold floors and drafts that can intensify the pain and stiffness of arthritis. Hydrotherapy can be a great exercise for pets with arthritis to gently loosen up stiff joints without weight bearing pressure on painful limbs. Marty Pease leads the CRCG clinical rehabilitation staff. She is a licensed Physical Therapist with over 21 years of experience and was certified by the University of Tennessee in canine rehabilitation in 2003. Marty would love to have you visit the Canine Rehabilitation & Condition Group (CRCG) to take your dog for a swim in the Open Dog Pool. You can also talk to your family veterinarian for other arthritis treatments for dogs and cats.

The moral of the story...snuggle a little closer with your cold nosed dog or cat to keep warm this winter.

What Should Santa Bring "Lucky"?

Even if our pets don't know the true meaning of the holidays, they do enjoy the attention and special presents that owners give them. Pet owners and those looking to give gifts to pets or owners could consider actual physical gifts, gifts that benefit other animals, or a gift that might benefit the pet in the future.

Remember, when giving gifts to your pet to consider his or her personality. If your dog tends to shred his toys than a stuffed animal with a squeaky center is probably not a good idea. The last thing you want is to have a Christmas present become an ingested foreign body that leads to an emergency visit to the nearest veterinary hospital.

That said there are lots of great options on the market these days, and whether you plan a trip to your local pet super store or want to stay home and shop on-line we have some suggestions to get you started.

Consider the "Croc" shaped shoe bed at http://www.sasquatchpetbeds.com/ or the beds made from recycled material at http://www.mollymutt.com/, either option gives your friend a new and comfortable place to stay. It may take some time for "Lucky" to get accustomed to his new bed. Placing one of his familiar blankets in the bed may help his acceptance of his luxurious new accommodations.

Toys are important to help keep your pet occupied and out of trouble. A variety of laser pointers are available at most major pet retailers, including the new FroliCat BOLT Automatic Laser toy. Dogs love any number of toys and this year you can choose from tough durable Kong® toys and the new GoughNuts. PetSmart has their soft plush Luv-A-Pet toys and 10% of sales go to help homeless pets. Remember when choosing a toy for your pet to ensure that the toy is durable without any removable pieces that could be swallowed. The first introduction to a new toy should be at a time when you can spend time with your pet to make sure they "play responsibly".

Or maybe you just want your pet to have a new outfit for the holidays. At http://www.poochieheaven.com/, you can find everything from Santa hats to elf outfits and gingerbread tees!

Overall, beyond the fun toys or fancy clothes for your pets, we recommend that you consider some less common, but definitely helpful gifts.

Millions of pets wander off each year, unable to find their way back home. A microchip, along with proper registration can insure your pet's safe return in case he becomes lost. Ask your family veterinarian for more information.

Being prepared for any emergency may not be a flashy gift, but it could save your pet's life. Consider pet insurance or even a Pet Health Savings plans as one way to help protect your pet from serious illness or injury. A variety of insurance plans are available at http://www.purinacare.com/ or http://www.petsbest.com/ and you can even set up an interest bearing, insured savings account for your pet by visiting http://www.pawsitivesavings.com/.

There are lots of families who need some assistance with their pet's medical bills. Here at the VRCC Specialty & Emergency Hospital we raise funds for the Animal Care Foundation, a non-profit organization providing one-time, partial financial assistance for emergency or specialty veterinary care from VRCC to low income Colorado residents. You can donate here.

Remember your local pet shelters this holiday season. In the Denver area the Dumb Friends League or Maxfund could always use a donation to care for the animals for which they provide shelter and love. Can't add one more pet to your house? Consider being a Pet Pal for a Maxfund animal.

And, as Dr. Arnold Goldman from Connecticut writes, "the gift of time matters to them the most." Make it a point to spend a little more time with your pets each day.

Our pets give us so much and ask so little in return. Ask your family veterinarian about ideas to help keep your four legged friend healthy and happy.

Happy shopping!

Winter Adventures

Did you know?
Sitting in a nice hot sauna at the gym today I was conversing with a guy who was excitedly conveying his plans for a three day winter camping trip with his dog, a Rottweiler/Doberman mix. I must admit, I was jealous. I remember the days when I had the freedom to take off for a few days into the silence and solitude of the back country on snowshoes. I never got to take a dog along, but that certainly would have been the cherry on the ice cream sundae for the soul. However, I digress. What I really want to write about are the precautions to take when bringing your four-legged friend on a winter adventure.

You may not be quite the die hard fan of winter to want to do a snow camping trip, but even if you decide to take your dog on a winter walk in the snow there are some things to consider, especially if the temperatures are in the teens or below.

Let me tell you why.
Some dogs are more sensitive to the cold than others. Small breeds, short haired dogs, puppies and geriatric dogs, dogs that are normally "indoor" pets, and those with heart or other medical conditions are all more sensitive to colder temperatures. A dog's normal body temperature is between 99.5 and 102.5. When a dog fitting one of the above descriptions is exposed to colder temperatures he or she often has a difficult time keeping his/her core body temperature within the normal range. When the temperature dips below the normal range hypothermia sets in. Hypothermia means that your dog is loosing body heat faster than it can be replaced.

Signs of hypothermia:
- shivering
- lethargy
- stiff muscles
- pale or gray gums
- stumbling or lack of coordination
- fixed and dilated pupils
- low heart and breathing rates
- collapse
- or even coma

With mild hypothermia your dog is likely to be shivering and appear lethargic. As the hypothermia increases in severity the other symptoms become evident - effectively your dog becomes increasingly unresponsive as his body goes into heat conservation mode. At this time your dog's focus will be on keeping his vital organs working by restricting the blood flow to all but these parts of his body. If it's not treated, hypothermia can be fatal.

Prevention is Key
Dogs sensitive to cold should be kept inside with quick potty breaks outside. The small dogs and short haired breeds benefit from a doggy jacket that helps to keep their core warm. Booties may also be a good idea for three reasons. One, lots of heat escapes through a dogs foot pads. The booties can help decrease the heat loss. Two, dogs with long hair often get ice balls caught in the hair between the toes. The ice balls can be irritating and your dog may stop every few minutes to chew at the balls of snow. Three, if there is a layer of ice on top of the snow; the jagged edges can actually cut your dogs pads. That is rare here in Colorado, but might be more likely at higher elevations with repeated melting and freezing.

Treatment
Mild hypothermia can be reversed by getting back in a warm environment and wrapping your dog with a blanket until the shivering stops. Hypothermia that has dropped the dogs temperature to the 90-94 degree range will require rewarming methods. Water bottles filled with warm water placed around your dog deliver a warm heat source that is safe. Stay away from heating pads as it is easy to burn your dog's skin and cause a hot spot. It is recommended that you take your animal to your family veterinarian or veterinary emergency service for observation and/or treatment if you need to treat for hypothermia. Severe hypothermia requires immediate veterinary intervention. Unfortunately, it may be difficult to reverse the damage at this level of hypothermia, but we can hope for the best.

Fortunately the gentleman at the gym was aware of the potential dangers for his dog from winter camping and was prepared. He had two dog jackets, was prepared to have his dog sleep with him, and knew the signs and treatment for hypothermia. He volunteered that he would willingly cut his trip short if his dog didn't seem to be able to handle the cold weather. I hope for both their sakes that their trip is peaceful and refreshing and is just the beginning of a many more adventures together.

Giving Thanks this Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is a great holiday.
We are coming to the end of a year that has been difficult. Economic fears have become reality for many people and businesses, and lots of folks are feeling the pinch. But at the end of the day, in the midst of the worries and stresses of daily life, it's great to walk through the door to a friendly greeting. The tail wags, entangled feet, wet kisses, and cold noses remind us that we can be thankful for the unconditional love of pets.

So this Thanksgiving, whether you are gathering with lots of family and friends or warming up a Hungry Man dinner, be sure to give your dog or cat a little bit of turkey and lots of love. Then start thinking of all the things you can be thankful for. You'll be surprised that even the simplest things, when added together, make up quite a list. We could all use a little bit of giving thanks this Thanksgiving.

Happy Thanksgiving!

H1N1 and Pets

Did you know?
It's true, the headlines declaring a cat was diagnosed with H1N1 have been confirmed. But what does that mean for you and your feline friend?

Until recently, experts believed that, with the exception of birds and pet pigs, our pets were not susceptible to the H1N1 virus. In fact, we don't generally worry about our pets with any of the common seasonal flu strains. Now, several cases of H1N1 in ferrets, one cat that tested positive for the virus, and another reported case in a cat, have shown that human transmission of the bug to our pets is possible. So, even though pets bring us lots of comfort, it is best to avoid sleeping or snuggling with your pets if you are ill with flu like symptoms.

The good news is that like most people, it appears that this flu causes a mild illness in pets. Both cats survived and have recovered from the virus. Treatment for pets that contract H1N1 are supportive care and antibiotics if a secondary bacterial infection is present.

Your family veterinarian, the Veterinarians here at VRCC, the AVMA, and the CDC are all continuing to monitor H1N1 in order to make sure pets and people say protected. If pets were especailly susceptible, we would expect infection rates that mirrored the human population.

If your pet is showing any signs of illness, such as lethargy, fever, and runny nose, call your family veterinarian to schedule an exam. Or, if it is after hours, the Veterinarians and technicians at CVES are happy to see you and your pet to relieve your concerns and provide any care that is necessary for your animal.

As Leonardo da Vinci so elegantly stated, "the smallest feline is a masterpiece".

For additional information on the H1N1 virus and pets visit the AVMA website.

Loosing Your Lunch

Did you know?
Unfortunately, animals can eat the darndest things at the worst possible times! Say for instance your cat eats your nylons, one of your dogs eats a tennis ball, and the other dog gets into some chocolate. Yikes! I certainly understand that you might want to avoid a veterinary bill and choose to turn to the internet to look for ways to make your pet(s) vomit without having to leave your home. You may find a solution, but it may not be the wisest choice.

Let me tell you why.
Most veterinarians will not routinely recommend at-home use of emetics (medicines to cause vomiting). The time it takes to find the substance, corral the animal, and administer the dosage may take as long, or longer, than the ride to the vet. Plus, at-home administration may just prolong the proper medical care the animal needs.

For one thing, when an animal swallows an object it might be dangerous to have it come back out the way it got in. For example, take the scenario of your dog eating a tennis ball. Causing him to vomit could lodge the ball in his esophagus and cause him to choke. Or, if an animal eats a particularly sharp object like a broken chicken bone, a pencil, or a piece of glass, the object has the potential of inflicting more harm on the animals body on the way back out. The solution for that type of ingestion could be to have the animal eat a lot of fiber (canned pumpkin, rice, bread) to "bulk up" and wrap around the object so it comes safely out the other end. Either way, call your family veterinarian first to find out if vomiting up the substance, or object, is safe for the animal.

Also, you may not know that it is very difficult to get a cat to vomit. Even with emetic medications available to veterinarians cats are a finicky bunch about regurgitating their lunch. Dogs are a bit more amenable, but I've seen a few dogs also unphased by the medications to make them sick.

The internet is abundant with recommendations for using hydrogen peroxide, ipecac syrup or salt as a means of causing an animal to vomit, thereby removing the toxic or dangerous substance he or she has ingested. Let's examine each of these substances for their pro's and con's.

Hydrogen Peroxide: The most common recommendation is to use 3% hydrogen peroxide (H202) in a dose of 1 teaspoon per 10 lbs of body weight for the animal. If it is successful, hydrogen peroxide should cause vomiting within 10 minutes. Never administer the dose more than twice in a row. Overdosing with hydrogen peroxide can have the unfortunate affect of making the dog vomit excessively; which could lead to dehydration and land the animal in the hospital for fluid therapy and administration of an anti-emetic to stop the vomiting. At best, hydrogen peroxide is effective as an emetic 50% of the time. So you could administer the dose and still need to bring the animal to your veterinarian for care since the toxic substance or object is still inside.

Ipecac Syrup: Most parents of small children have Ipecac syrup in the medicine chest for emergency use, so you may have some on hand. But, it is similar to hydrogen peroxide in causing the desired outcome - it works about 50% of the time. It is also difficult to administer because of the bitter taste. Most notably, if the animal does not vomit, the syrup still needs to be removed because of the potential for negative cardiovascular side affects. Ipecac syprup should induce vomiting within 10 - 30 minutes, although it can be delayed up to an hour.

Table Salt: The use of table salt as an emetic in dogs and cats is generally frowned upon because of the potential for causing more harm than good. The maximum dosage in dogs and cats is 1 to 3 teaspoons and usually induces vomiting within 10 to 15 minutes. However, if the salt does not cause vomiting the increased sodium levels can cause acute swelling of the brain and even death. Not a good outcome!

Veterinary Emetics: Veterinarians usually use one of two medicines to make animals vomit - Apomorphine or Xylazine. The apomorphine can be used for dogs or cats while the Xylazine is used only in cats. Apomorphine (Apo) has about a 90% success rate in dogs. Veterinarians also have another drug to counter the effects of the Apo to stop the vomiting if needed. The percentage of success in cats tends to be lower. Fortunately cats are less likely to get into toxic substances that requires them to vomit.

About 20 minutes after the animal has vomited, activated charcoal is administered for patients who got into a toxic substance. The activated charcoal helps to absorb more of the toxin since on average only about 70% of the toxin is vomited up - another reason to at least end treatment with your veterinarian if you choose to try one of the at-home remedies.

Overall, a trip to the vet is still the wisest choice. You may get lucky by administering one of these at home remedies and have a great outcome, but our veterinarians don't recommend you take the chance.

The moral of the story...hope you weren't eating lunch

Consider Pet Insurance

Did you know?
It's no secret that veterinary fees have increased significantly over the last ten years and will continue to do so to keep pace with the cost of doing business. Still, when you consider that the education, technology, medicines and protocols are all very similar in scope and cost to human medicine, then veterinary medicine is a bargain. But a major difference is payment requirements. Co-pays and billing options for human medicine have softened the cost for office visits and made access to care more available. In comparison, pet medical care requires payment up front for the full invoice and the price tag can come as a shock, especially in the case of an emergency.

Pet savings plans in theory are great, but very few people have the discipline and foresight to create a special account for pet medical bills. Saving even $40 a month will take a pet owner 6 years to save enough to cover an emergency surgery if your dog gets hit by a car or blows out a knee. But where does that leave you, the pet owner?

The pet insurance industry has been around since the early 80's, but pet owners and veterinarians have been resistant to using or advocating pet health insurance policies. Historically pet owners have found it hard to see a significant benefit for the cost and veterinarians have strongly resisted the idea of networks and the headaches found in human health care. But as prices increase and the bond between people and their pets strengthens more people are looking for a way to cover their costs and help ensure that a medical emergency doesn't become a life or death decision because of money. As a result there has been an increase in the number of pet health insurance companies. While there are similarities in practice between companies, there can be wide variations in the details of the policies they offer. So how do you choose the best pet insurance for your animals that fits your budget?

Let me tell you how.
I was surprised at the number of pet health insurance companies in the industry when I started researching available policies. Currently I know of eleven companies that insure in Colorado and there seems to be new providers popping up every year.

Covered vs. Excluded
All the companies I looked at exclude coverage for pre-existing conditions. But you really have to read the fine print to know the definition of pre-existing conditions. For example, some companies will insure a condition or incident in one benefit year, but upon renewal that condition or incident becomes a pre-existing condition. The condition is then excluded from coverage or a 180 day waiting period must expire before the condition is eligible for coverage.

Hereditary conditions are another stickler. I am aware of one company who will provide limited coverage for hereditary conditions as long as the pet is insured by age 2; while other companies won't cover hereditary conditions at all. The broadest coverage for hereditary conditions seems to be provided by PurinaCare whose literature states that "hereditary conditions are considered to be qualifying medical expenses if they are not pre-existing".

Then there are the categories of conditions that are covered only by purchasing supplemental coverage. For example, reimbursement for Hip Dysplasia requires a separate rider with Trupanion; and VPI requires purchase of an Enhanced Cancer Rider for cancer treatment coverage. I strongly recommend reading a sample policy before enrolling in a plan to be fully aware of the type of coverage your premium will buy.

Deductible and Coinsurance
You'll want to decide what type and level of deductible you can afford. Deductibles are either annual, or by incident, e.g. all visits and treatments related to a hit-by-car accident on a specific date. Deductibles range from $0 to $1000 and your monthly premium is directly proportional to the size of deductible you choose. Once you meet your deductible, reimbursement for veterinary medical expenses is usually stated as a percentage. A common level of reimbursement is 80% of our veterinary bill after deductible for illnesses, accidents and injuries. Companies with a fee schedule will only pay the stated amount per type of injury, illness, or treatment. This may still be a good option, but you should be familiar with the amount of coverage ahead of time.

Limits
Insurance companies are required to keep a certain amount of money in reserve based on the limits of coverage stated in their policy and the number of lives insured. The limit can be stated as a per incident limit, annual limit, and/or lifetime limit of coverage. When comparing plans consider that an incident can involve multiple types of care and treatment. An example might be an animal that gets hit by a car and comes in to the ER on a Saturday morning then needs an emergency splenectomy followed by a transfer to Internal Medicine for several days of hospital care. Then after being discharged from the hospital bandage changes may be necessary. This typical type of case could easily add up to $5,000. At 80% coverage your reimbursement would be $3600 (after you meet your $500 deductible); unless your incident limit is $1500. Then the most you could be reimbursed is $1500; an important factor to keep in mind.

Accident, Illness, Wellness
One of the biggest decisions will be between an accident and illness only plan versus one that includes coverage for a wellness or routine care plan. Most wellness plans are paid by benefit schedule, meaning there is a set dollar amount the company will pay for the services such as the annual exam, vaccinations, or heartworm test. Each benefit schedule varies and it might be beneficial to compare the listed reimbursement allowed against the cost of those services by your family veterinarian before deciding if paying for coverage is cost effective.

Discounts
Some companies provide discounts for covering multiple pets. Discounts range from 5 to 15% off the premium depending on the number of animals insured. Other discounts might include 5% for microchipping or a small discount for paying the premium annually instead of monthly.

Monthly Premium
Pet insurance premiums are based on policy type, deductible, zip code, and species, breed, and age of your pet. Premiums can range from $5 to $250 per month based on the previously mentioned factors and the number of pets insured. You choose what works best for your monthly budget. Most likely your final decision will be determined by the premium, but be careful to look at the full picture to make sure you get the best value for the premium paid.

Recommendations
I just threw a lot of information at you all at once, kind of like getting sprayed by a fire hose. Let me turn down the dial a bit and give you the website of a company I would recommend. PurinaCare started offering policies just over a year ago. While they are new on the market, their brand has been around for many years and provides a solid reputation. PurinaCare offers two options PurinaCare Plus Preventive Care or PurinaCare without Preventive Care. Both are detailed on their website where you can also get a personalized quote.

Consider an accident only plan similar to those offered by ASPCA or Embrace. This sort of plan will cover things like bloat, foreign body ingestion, hit by car, poisoning, cuts and lacerations. The type of thing you always hope will never happen, but when they do seem to happen at the worse times.

Here are a couple websites where you can compare plans side by side:

• Dogtime.com
• PetInsuranceReview.com
  

Dr. Kay's book "Speaking for Spot" also includes a chapter on pet health insurance and has some great questions to consider in your search process.

AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) gives the seal of acceptance to three companies. You'll find details on their website.

The moral of the story...protect your wallet and your pets' life, consider pet insurance.

Halloween Hints

Halloween Hints

Did you know?
We are about to make the plunge into the holiday season starting with the spooky and candy laden festivities of Halloween. Holidays are fun and offer great memory making moments and fun picture opportunities. They also can pose some safety challenges that aren't normally on your radar. For the sake of safety, and to help ensure a "spooktakular" celebration, I've put together a few tips for keeping your four legged friends safe and healthy on Halloween.

Costumes
There are some fabulous Halloween costumes available for pets and some kid costumes can be adapted to fit your furry "children". When choosing a costume keep the following in mind:
- tie or remove any strings that could be eaten
- keep your animal with you while the costume is on to decrease the chance of ingestion or strangulation
- look for Velcro closures around the neck that can be easily removed
- make sure your pet won't trip on a cape or hanging piece of material
- not all animals find costumes enjoyable - take the costume off if your pet seems anxious or keeps pawing at the costume to get it off.

Food
Halloween is all about the loot. Make sure you have some pet appropriate treats around for the evening and watch out for the following:
- No matter how much "Lucky" begs don't give in to those pathetic eyes and feed him chocolate or raisins, or the double whammy, chocolate covered raisins. See my previous posts on these two food items for the potential toxic results for animals.
- Keep the "loot" bags out of reach of your pet. If "Lucky" decides to devour the bag the wrappers can become stuck in the esophagus or intestines and cause problems. Call your Veterinarian if your pet chooses a night of dietary indescretion.

General Safety
- Do you have a black cat? It's best to keep kitty inside for the night.
- If your pet gets over stimulated by the doorbell consider placing a sign at the front door asking trick-or-treaters to knock; or talk with your family vet about a mild sedative for the evening.
- Place jack-o-lanterns in a safe place where they won't get knocked over by your pet or set a tail on fire.
- Have a designated quiet room for your pets where they can feel safe if you have a party in your home.

By the way, if you are a client of the VRCC, post your Halloween pet pictures on our Facebook page!

Have a safe and happy "Howl"oween!

Updated 11/01/2009

All Wired Up

Did you know?
Halloween displays are starting to pop up around the neighborhood and my son keeps insisting that I start decorating. I love to decorate, but I've been resisting because I know that once I start decorating for fall the boxes just keep shuffling in and out of the basement for the next two months for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Maybe for you it's Hanukkah or Kwanzaa. But the lights and extension cords for air filled pumpkins, tree lights, and outside displays can get out of control. Not to mention that for curious cats and dogs all those cords may be fun to chew on and can be very dangerous.

Let me tell you why.
Animals chew on the strangest things! Causes of destructive chewing can range from teething in puppies and kittens to curiosity, to boredom, and even (surprise!) because of a nutrient deficiency, or rarely, a condition known as pica which causes animals to crave and ingest non-food items.

Whatever the cause for the chewing, it can be dangerous for your pet and for you. As most pet owners know too well, animal teeth can be very sharp, especially puppies and kittens. Just a few bites on an electrical cord can penetrate the plastic covering causing contact with live electrical wires.

If you see your pet being electrocuted do not touch the animal until you unplug the cord or shut off the power or you will be electrocuted.

If you are unable to get to the cord to unplug it from the wall use a broom stick or similar non-conductive object to move your animal away from the cord. Immediately assess your animal to make sure it has a pulse and is breathing. Administer CPR as necessary. Check out this site for more detail on animal CPR. Then immediately take your animal to your family veterinarian, or if it's after hours to Central Veterinary Emergency Services, or a 24 hour animal ER in your area.

Electrocution by chewing on a cord can cause burns to the tongue, gums and lips which may be visible right away or may be painful to the animal, but will take some time to appear. Burns in the mouth can make eating and drinking difficult for your animal. Careful attention should be paid to the amount of food and water being ingested by your pet. Your veterinarian can prescribe pain medicines to relieve your pet's discomfort. Another effect of electrocution may be noncardiogenic pulmonary edema which basically means the lungs fill up with fluid making it difficult for your animal to get enough oxygen. Hospitalization is necessary to administer oxygen and monitor lung function. Antibiotics and anti-inflammatory medications may also be necessary. This condition is serious and can vary in outcome depending on the severity and any underlying illness.

So what can you do to protect your pets? If you have animals prone to chewing I would recommend trying to "animal proof" your home like you would for an infant or toddler. Place covers on outlets, move breakable objects away from edges, put away socks, shoes, underwear, etc.

But I digress, lets talk about electrical cords. I found two websites with products that look very promising. CritterCord has heavy gauge electrical cord covers that have a bitter coating and fit around various size cords. Their product was rated as a favorite by Cat Fancy in 2008. OnLineOrganizing.com has transparent floor cord protectors that can keep all your cords tidy while protecting them from sharp teeth. They even have a decorating suggestion of running Christmas lights through the center to create a nice glow in low light areas. Home Depot has a similar product called "wiremold" that comes in varying colors and lengths. You might also try stringing the cords higher or placing a throw rug over extension cords. If you will be away from your home for any length of time consider unplugging as many cords as possible.

The moral of the story...pretty and safe go together like chocolate and peanut butter.

Updated 10/13/09

Toxic Anti-Freeze and The Pet Friendly Alternative

Did you know?
I drove down my street yesterday and caught sight of a tree that was ablaze with color. The yellows and golds glistened in the late afternoon sun. But, the changing colors means summer is officially over and your mental alarm might be going off to start winterizing your vehicle. If your plan includes flushing your radiator and refilling with antifreeze please take caution and clean up any spills. For cats and dogs one or two licks of antifreeze is all it takes for a lethal dose. Cats are four times as sensitive to the poison as dogs. If you suspect antifreeze ingestion, get to your Veterinarian's office immediately.

Let me tell you why.
The majority of antifreeze products on the market contain 95% Ethylene Glycol, a highly toxic chemical to all mammals and moderately toxic to aquatic animals. Ethylene glycol is also found in windshield washer fluid, brake fluid, hydraulic fluids, film processing solutions, paint solvents, and is used to de-ice airplanes and runways.

Animals are attracted to ethylene glycol because of the sweet taste. The poisoning happens in two stages. At first it may appear that "Lucky" is drunk from the staggering, vomiting, falling down, excessive drinking and peeing, and acting dizzy. These signs usually manifest within the first three to six hours after ingestion and tend not to last long. Then "Lucky" may seem normal and it may appear that you and your four legged friend are out of the woods. Unfortunately, that is far from the truth. The second stage of poisoning happens when the body starts to break down the ethylene glycol into other chemicals such as aldehyde, glycolic acid, and oxalate. This stage is dangerous because it can cause severe to fatal damage to the kidneys.

Diagnosis for ethylene glycol poisoning can be tricky. There is a test that was designed specifically for determining ethylene glycol poisoning, but it must be used within 12 hours of ingestion for accurate results. Otherwise, the tests needed for diagnosis include a urinalysis to look for crystals in the urine, and a full blood chemistry panel to look at values related to renal (kidney) function.

Treatment for ethylene glycol poisoning has been helped tremendously with the introduction of 4-Methylpyrazole or 4-MP. 4-MP helps to prevent the second stage of poisoning allowing the animal's body to eliminate the toxins without causing damage to the kidneys. Dosing for cats is much higher than for dogs and must be administered within 3 hours in order to be effective. For both dogs and cats dosing is usually done over a 36 hour period by IV. Treatment will also include IV fluids with continued monitoring of renal blood values. Prognosis for your animal can range from good to poor or even fatal depending on the amount of ethylene glycol consumed and the time elapsed between ingestion and commencement of treatment.

Of course the best treatment is prevention. Be sure to clean up spills or leaks and store the liquid securely out of reach of your pets. However, there is an alternative antifreeze on the market that uses propylene glycol. Propylene glycol has a less pleasant taste, is biodegradable and does not cause the kidney damage like ethylene glycol. Large amounts of ingestion may still cause anemia and gastro-intestinal upset, but it does not appear to be as potentially fatal. H.R. 615, The Antifreeze Bittering Act of 2009 has also been introduced that would require ethylene glycol manufactures to add denatonium benzoate to ethylene glycol to deter animals from ingesting the toxic substance.

The moral of the story...don't let car maintenance become a tragedy.

Can My Dog Get the Flu?

Did you know?

That was the question posed to me last week at a class I was taking downtown. With all the talk about the H1N1 Swine Flu and the annual flu vaccine reminders on billboards it's no wonder that I was asked if dogs and cats can get the flu. Surprisingly enough there is a flu form that affects dogs. The first case of H3N8 Canine Influenza was first detected in racing greyhounds back in 1999. H3N8 is believed to have originated as an Equine Influenza that jumped species to greyhounds, mutated and has since become contagious to all dogs. The first major outbreak of the virus happened in 2004 and it continues to make an appearance throughout the country in varying degrees. The clinical signs for Canine Influenza are much the same as kennel cough, which makes the virus difficult to diagnose with out a lab test. But as of yet, we haven't seen that many cases in our ER.

Let me tell you why.
First, let me put your fears to rest and tell you that humans can not catch the canine flu. Phew, one less thing to worry about. But, your dog can catch canine influenza from other dogs. Just like humans some dogs can get the virus and have no physical symptoms while other dogs can get pretty sick and even develop a secondary bacterial infection that requires antibiotics and intensive medical care.

As I mentioned, symptoms of the canine influenza look very similar to other upper respiratory illnesses and the treatment would be very similar as well. Symptoms could include cough, runny nose or nasal discharge, increased breating rate, fever, and just feeling kind of blah. With those symptoms the best treatment is to make sure your dog stays hydrated and keep him or her away from other animals for a few days. However, if the cough gets worse, or your dogs normal attitude and behavior continues to be off, a visit to your family veterinarian is advised. If a secondary infection has developed into bronchitis or pneumonia then a full spectrum antibiotic will be prescribed and your furry friend may need to be hospitalized for continued supportive care.

Canine influenza can be spread through sneezing and coughing by contagious animals or through saliva left on balls or sticks when playing. Humans can bring it home on clothes or toys that were in contact with an infectious dog. So as with humans, if you are around dogs that are coughing or sneezing a lot be sure to wash balls, bedding, favorite blankets etc to minimize the spread of the virus.

The moral of the story...let's hope we all avoid the flu, humans and canines too.

Lost and Found

Did you know?
As an animal ER we often have "good samaritans" bring hurt animals to us for care. Of course, besides taking care of their physical wounds or illness we also would love to reconnect the four-legged animal with their two legged human. In our hospital we keep an iMAX Black Label International Universal microchip reader - specially designed to read any of the microchips. Any stray dog or cat brought to our hospital gets scanned to see if we can match the pet with an owner. Being in an animal welfare profession we of course love it when we have a happy ending, sadly that is not always the case. The most frustrating is when there is a readable chip, but the client has forgotten to update their information after a move or phone # change.

Let me tell you why.
Animal identification systems are made up of three parts:

1. The microchip - a tiny rice sized component that is uniquely identified with a number that matches the animal with your personal information. The microchip is inserted under the skin just over the shoulder blade by your veterinarian or at your local shelter.
2. The reader - there are various readers that are either specific to the chip manufacturer and can read only that chip or universal readers that can read multiple manufacturer chips.
3. The database - there must be a repository of all the pets and their respective owners that shelters, animal control agencies, or veterinarians can access to attempt to reconnect you and your pet.

As you can see, there are multiple areas of potential breakdown in the process. The microchip could migrate to an area of the body that is unexpected and get missed when scanning. The reader might not read the type of microchip that has been inserted into your animal; or your information stored in the database is out of date and there is no way to reach you.

So, you ask, why microchip? Because that would be the perfect storm. The majority of the time when a microchip is present there is a happy reunion. Isn't that the way you want your movie script written?

A checklist of reminders:
- have your family veterinarian scan for the chip occasionally to ensure it hasn't migrated and the id # is readable
- whenever your personal information changes, update the microchip directory

So, if you have microchipped your animal and your pet squeezes through the fence, gets found by a "good samaritan" and is brought to our ER then we know who to call to return "Lucky" to his rightful owner.

If you haven't, here are some microchip identification systems for you to consider:

Bayer resQ Microchip Identification System
AVID - American Veterinary Identification Devices
AKC Companion Animal Recovery
HomeAgain Pet Recovery and Identification System
PetLink International Pet Directory

The moral of the story...help script a happy ending to get your lost pet found.

Home Remedies

Did you know?

You may have called your veterinarian's office with a question about symptoms your pet is experiencing and been asked to bring your pet in for care. The honest truth is that it can be very difficult to provide good medical advice over the phone. There are so many variables that could be causing the symptoms being experienced by your pet and sometimes there is no way for a verbal description to convey the true nature or severity of the problem. Sometimes the best option is to bring your pet in for a physical exam by a trained veterinarian. However, there are some simple comfort and first aid measures that you can do at home to provide relief either physically or emotionally for your pet and for yourself. There are also a couple that are best avoided and you may not be aware of the risk.

Let me tell you what they are...

1. Skunk Bath
The first one is more for you than "Lucky". If your pet gets sprayed by a skunk there is a good likelihood that he/she could stay in the stench for a while (unless the spray got in the eyes - it burns). You, on the other hand, probably won't sleep unless you can get some of the smell out. The first step is to rinse the eyes with sterile saline solution. Then follow with the skunk bath.

Here is the "skunk bath" recipe we give to our clients when they call:
1 Quart (32 oz) 3% Hydrogen Peroxide
1/4 C baking soda
1 t liquid soap - citrus scent

Mix all ingredients together. Poor the liquid over the animal, lather up and rinse off. Depending on the size of the animal and the intensity of the smell you may need to repeat the procedure multiple times. These quantities can be doubled or tripled.

2. Eye Wash
Sterile Buffered Saline solution is safe to use to wash out your pets eyes from skunk spray, an air borne contaminant, speck of sawdust, or a small blade of grass. However, if your pet continues to paw at its eyes, the eye(s) appear red or the object seems stuck in the eye, then follow-up veterinary care would be required. The eye may have gotten scratched, or an infection may have developed, that requires an ophthalmic medication.

3. Canned Pumpkin
If your dog or cat is having the occasional case of constipation or diarrhea, one of the things that might help is canned pumpkin. Yes, canned pumpkin in its pureed form (NOT pumpkin pie filling) is a fantastic stool softener which makes it a good natural remedy for constipation. It often helps with upset stomach or indigestion for both cats and dogs. It is very rich in fiber and adding just one or two teaspoonfuls to your pet's food often gets the system moving in no time. Dogs will occasionally want to eat it directly and that's fine too. Sometimes though, finicky cats and dogs won't touch it, no matter what you do.

On the opposite end of things is diarrhea. Since the dietary fiber in canned pumpkin absorbs water, it can be a great help to a cat or dog that has diarrhea. Some pet owners report that it firms up their pet's loose stools or diarrhea within a few hours. Again one to two teaspoonfuls is all that is needed.

It should be noted that both diarrhea and constipation can be very serious. Whatever the cause, diarrhea or constipation lasting more than 24-36 hours requires immediate veterinary care.

4. NO NSAIDS
NSAIDS - Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs are a class of medications that include, but are not limited to, aspirin, ibuprofen (Motrin, Advil, Nuprin), naproxen (Aleve, Naprosyn), and COX -2 inhibitors (Celebrex). All of these drugs can be toxic to dogs and cats and should never be administered at home.
The only exceptions for dogs are baby or buffered aspirin, or acetaminaphen, which should only be administered under the direction of a veterinarian for correct dosing. Veterinarians can prescribe anti-inflammatory and pain relieving medications that are safe for "Lucky".

5. Heat Support
If your pet has just had surgery, or "Lucky" comes in from playing in the snow and can't seem to get warm, you may be tempted to place him or her on your cozy electric heating pad for some extra warmth. Unfortunately, heating pads are notorious for large fluctuations in temperature and even though your cat or dog may seem very fluffy, the heating pad can actually cause serious hot spots or burns to your pet's skin. Instead, try a warmed water bottle or fill a balloon with warm water and place either of these under a towel for your pet to lie near. This indirect heat can be re-warmed, but has less likelihood to get too hot for comfort. If your pet is mobile, let him move off the heat at will. If not mobile, be sure to reposition your cat or dog every 10 minutes or so to be sure the heat is evenly distributed and does not burn one part of his body.

The moral of the story...have a few tricks up your sleeve, but play it safe.

"Speaking for Spot"

Time for a Change

I've decided to change the format of the blog this week. Instead of my usual alerts about how to keep your "Lucky" safe I thought you might enjoy a quick peak at a book I was introduced to last week. Dr. Nancy Kay is a boarded Internal Medicine Specialist who practices at VCA Animal Care Center of Sonoma County in Northern California. Her book, Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life, came out in 2008. This book offers some excellent information for animal owners about veterinary care in the 21st century. Veterinary medicine has grown by leaps and bounds in scope and application in the last 10 -15 years and many more options are available for treating illness and injury for your four-legged friend.

The book seems to be targeted towards dog owners through the pictures and chapter titles, but the information inside applies for cats just as well. Topics in the book range from "The 10 Commandments of Veterinary Office Visits" to descriptions of some of the advanced medical diagnostic and treatment options that might be used for your animal. Sprinkled in between the data and descriptions are heart warming vignettes about animals, their humans and the emotional impact of an experience they have had with their veterinarian as they walked through medical decisions.

Dr. Kay has captured a book full of tips and truths that we often wish we had the time to communicate to our clients in the short time we see them in an emergency visit. I highly recommend this book to pet owners to get the most out of your interaction with your veterinarian and learn how to help your furry friend "live a happy, healthy, longer life".

You can listen to an interview with Dr. Kay about her book on a Fresh Air broadcast, the National Public Radio weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues hosted by Terry Gross. Just below the feature is an excerpt from her book that will give you a taste of the practical information this book provides. Dr. Kay also writes a weekly blog that expounds on topics related to those found in the book and there is a website dedicated to Speaking for Spot with links to purchase your own copy. I'm sure yours will become "dog eared" from lots of use.

Happy reading!

Kitty Kidneys

Did you know?
As a cat matures (sorry kitties, it happens to the best of us) it is important to keep an eye on his or her kidney function. That seems like a rather obtuse statement so let me clarify. Unfortunately, older kitties are more prone to develop kidney disease. The clinical name you might hear is chronic renal failure or CRF. Cats tend to be discreet and try to hide any symptoms of sickness so it is often late in the game before chronic renal failure is diagnosed. The best outcome for a cat with CRF is directly tied with an early diagnosis and supportive care from a loving owner.

Let me tell you why.
The easiest symptom change to watch for in an indoor cat is increased drinking and increased urination. Other symptoms include dehydration (indicated by dry gums and skin that is slow to return to normal when pulled up at the base of the neck), constipation, weight loss, change in smell, drooling and/or nausea or vomiting. CRF is the process of the kidneys slowly loosing the ability to filter waste and toxins out of the blood. Often, by the time these symptoms appear the kidneys can be as much as 70% shut down and treatment is needed right away. Unfortunately, the damage to the kidneys is usually progressive and irreversible.

Two common tests that will be preformed at the hospital are blood chemistry and a urinalysis. The blood test may be either a full blood panel or a quick test and is used to monitor creatinine levels, electrolyte levels, and blood urea nitrogen (or BUN, the waste levels in the blood). The urinalysis is used to measure the amount of protein in the urine and the concentration of the urine.

Depending on the progression of the disease, therapy might include subcutaneous fluids, where fluids are administered through a needle that is inserted under the skin of the cat and then absorbed into the body, or IV fluids for faster rehydration; medications to control nausea, vomiting, and anemia; and dietary management. Diet management can vary, but it usually means canned food that has a higher water content, home prepared diets, or special diets with a lower protein content.

There are some wonderful websites available that provide a lot more detail about the development, progression, treatment and potential outcome of CRF diagnosed kitties.

- Feline CRF Information Center - http://www.felinecrf.com/
- Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine put together a very nice video that provides information on many aspects of CRF. http://tiny.cc/GioD4
- Pawprints & Purrs, Inc., a non-profit educational organization - http://tinyurl.com/nf87pd

The moral of the story...regular care through your family veterinarian can help keep your kitty's kidneys healthy.

Pointed Discussion

Did you know?
Ever gotten poked by a porcupine quill? Maybe, especially if you have an overly curious family pet who likes to get up close and personal with the prickly beasts. Actually, porcupines are quite timid and don't release their quills unless cornered or attacked. Then they swing their quill covered tail until it finds its mark right in the face of your dog or cat. Now you have a choice to make, do you try to remove the quills yourself at home or take the animal to your family vet or veterinary emergency room? Our suggestion, head for the vet's office.

Let me tell you why.
When I was a kid, every summer we could count on our dog "Christmas" getting too friendly with a porcupine. One June he got quills in his snoot so many times that when it happened he headed straight for the truck and looked at us as if to say "ok, I know the drill, let's go see Dr. Sue", our neighbor and family veterinarian. Just once my Dad tried extracting the quills from the soft flesh of the dogs muzzle and realized quickly just how painful that procedure must be for poor "Christmas". Dad decided that paying the vet bill was much better than taking the chance of "Christmas" reacting in pain and biting him or my Mom.

The possibility of getting bit by your animal isn't the only reason to take "Lucky" to the vet to have the porcupine quills removed. Porcupine quills have little microscopic scales on the end that point in the opposite direction. When a quill gets embedded in your animal's skin the scales make the quill very painful to pull out. Those scales are also what can cause the quill to burrow into the flesh and migrate to other areas of the body. Though rare, Veterinarians have reported quills being found in the lower spine, elbow, eye, or abdomen weeks or months after the animal has had quills removed from its face or legs. If a quill migrates to the chest there is a possibility of needing surgical removal so it doesn't wreck havoc on the heart or lungs.

It is best to get the quills removed as soon as possible. On the way to the vet try to keep your dog from rubbing his face with his paws which can cause the quills to break off under the skin or can transfer the quills to his legs and paws. To remove the quills "Lucky" will be placed under general anesthesia and the veterinarian will painstakingly remove each individual quill. Special attention has to be paid to the inside of the mouth as the quills can be far back in the throat or be easily hidden in the soft flesh of the gums.

After recovering from anesthesia "Lucky" will be sent home with pain medicine and 7-10 days worth of antibiotics to decrease the possibility of infection. It is virtually impossible to find and remove every single quill. You'll need to examine your pet for a few days after the porcupine encounter to look for signs of infection or a forming abscess (swelling, redness, puss, oozing). If you notice any of these signs bring your pet back to the vet for follow-up care. You might find a quill that has worked its way to the surface and is easily removed with tweezers weeks later.

The moral of the story..."Lucky" shouldn't poke his nose where it doesn't belong or it's gonna get poked.

Hook, Line, and Sinker

Did you know?
My son has fishing pole envy! We were up at Lost Lake on Mt. Evans and a little boy was casting away with his Dad and friend. My 5 year-old boy was quite jealous and had to be pulled away when it was time to go. I started looking for kid sized poles in the store and was drawn to the rest of the gear. The hooks caught my eye and I was reminded of a vivid x-ray I'd seen not too long ago of a fishhook lodged in the esophagus of a dog. It is amazing what dogs, cats and small children can find with which to get themselves in trouble. This particular pooch was lucky that the hook passed safely through the other end. But it all depends on where the hook gets lodged, internally or externally, for the type of care "Lucky" might need to get "un-hooked".

Let me tell you why!
Fishing hooks can be quite attractive to animals because of the smell of the bait or because of the colorful wiggly fly. I've seen a fish hook poking out of a dog's nose and have heard about accidents where the hook is lodged in a lip, in the tongue, on the face, in a leg or toe, and yes, even swallowed. Treatment for each of these can vary depending on the location, the sensitivity of the spot, the type of hook, and the reaction of your pet.

If you Google this topic you'll find multiple sites that recommend pushing the hook through the lip of an animal then cutting off the barb and pulling the cut part through. My belief is that the percentage of animals that will let you do that are small and you run the risk of getting bit or scratched up should you go that route. The best bet is to bring your animal to your Veterinarian. The veterinarian can anesthetize the area around the hook, also called a local block, and perform the same procedure with less pain to the animal. The exceptions are aggressive animals that need additional sedation to be comfortable or animals that have actually swallowed the hook.

It really is true, and very important, that you not pull on the fishing line protruding from your dog or cat's mouth. Pulling on the line can set the hook and make it that much more difficult to remove. Also, if you need to cut the line leave at least a foot or longer outside the mouth. The line can be used as a guide for the location of the hook and the fishing line has its own set of dangers if it gets swallowed and caught in the intestinal tract.

If the hook is still in the esophagus it is possible to sedate your animal and use an endoscope to locate the hook and then retrieve it with a special tool. If the hook passes into the stomach it is possible for the animal to pass it through it's system with no further complications. Surgery would be necessary if the hook pierces through internal tissue and is unable to be expelled by the animal's body.

The moral of the story...pets can get caught swallowing hook, line, and sinker.

Mary Jane

Did You Know?
If you live in Colorado you probably thought of the ski resort from reading the title for this entry. But you would be incorrect. In this post I'm talking about something recreational, but not the mountain climbing or skiing kind of recreation. Here's another clue, I attended a concert at Fiddlers green last night and the smell of this recreational substance was heavy in the air once the sun went down. I got to wondering if the smokers of said recreational substance (aka cannabis, weed, grass, marijuana, pot, and yes, Mary Jane) were animal owners and if they knew what would happen to their animal should "Lucky" accidentally get a hold of their stash or eat a marijuana brownie. According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center "Lucky" could get very sick.

Let me tell you why!
You may think it odd or even inappropriate to mention this topic on our blog site. But I tell you the truth that I only write about medical topics that we actually experience in our ER. So, let me clear up some myths and let you know how you can help us help your dog should you experience this type of situation.

First, let me talk about reporting. As a medical institution we are not obligated to report marijuana ingestion by your pet to the local police. Since the symptoms of marijuana toxicity can look like many other types of poisoning it is important to let your veterinarian know if you suspect this type of exposure. It helps us know what type of supportive care we need to provide and can cut down on having to perform multiple tests.

Fortunately the majority of marijuana ingestion cases are not fatal, but the potential is there depending on the size of your dog and the amount of marijuana eaten. The fatality could come from a decreased heart rate, decreased breathing rate, or seizures that are all possible side affects of the marijuana. The onset of symptoms can occur within 30 to 90 minutes of exposure. Symptoms can range from extremely excited and spastic to extremely sedated and comatose. Your animal may also vocalize or bark a lot, stagger or have uncoordinated movement, have hallucinations, or dribble urine. Gastrointestinal signs could include vomiting, diarrhea, dry mouth or excessive drooling.

Once we have confirmed exposure, treatment will vary depending on how much time has elapsed since ingestion. Attempting to have the dog vomit is usually the first step but the anti-nausea effects of cannabis can make it difficult to get a dog to vomit if it has been longer than 30 minutes since ingestion. If still alert and breathing well, activated charcoal can be administered to help absorb some of the toxin. Otherwise, supportive care includes IV fluids, temperature control, and body rotation if the animal isn't moving or has slipped into a coma. To the other extreme the drug Diazepam may be needed to decrease excitability so the animal can rest. Animals usually recover completely within 12 - 72 hours of exposure.

The moral of the story...cats and dogs really shouldn't get stoned.

Mushroom Mania

Did you know?
Who would have thought Colorado could possibly have been in a drought just a couple years back with all the rain we've had this year. Increased moisture levels for May, June, and July have contributed to abundant flora growth. The Denver Botanic gardens didn't even have to water one of its gardens until last week. Unfortunately, not all the flora is friendly. In fact, some of the mushrooms can be downright deadly.

Let me tell you why.
There are numerous varieties of mushrooms that grow here in Colorado. I think I've seen seven varieties in my own backyard. Most are harmless and don't even cause an upset stomach for your dog, but others can cause a severe reaction that can lead to death in a matter of a few hours.

Unfortunately, it may be difficult for you or your veterinarian to determine if the mushroom consumed by your family pet is dangerous, even if you bring a sample to the clinic. It would take a mycologist (a person who studies mushrooms) to differentiate one brown mushroom from another. Because of that we choose to treat according to the possible ingestion, the animal and the symptoms, not according to the type of mushroom.

Mushroom toxicity can affect the kidneys, liver, autonomic nervous system, central nervous system, and the gastrointestinal tract, depending on the species. The symptoms of toxicity can include vomiting, diarrhea, staggering or acting drunk, excessive drooling, and being mentally "spaced out''. The toxin can cause an immediate response and the dog will exhibit some of these signs of poisoning right away, or the affects may take 6 to 24 hours to appear.

Treatment for mushroom ingestion, and possible poisoning, most often includes making the animal vomit and then administering activated charcoal to help absorb any remnants of the toxin from the gastrointestinal tract. The animal may also be placed on IV fluids to help flush the kidneys. Additional treatment may be needed if the toxin has affected the liver or kidneys. Repeat blood tests will help to monitor enzyme levels for both organs to determine the type of medication needed.

The moral of the story...magic mushrooms cause misery.

(Note: Special thanks to Kristine Rotundo, CVT for her research on this topic)

Cat Air

Did you know?
It seems my posts have been slanted towards "dog world" of late and the cat content has been sorely lacking. I don't want to leave the kitties out, it just seems like the dogs tend to get themselves in trouble more often and end up taking more trips to the emergency room. So, from that point of view it probably is better that the felines have had fewer posts. Unfortunately, that doesn't mean that we never see them in the ER.

One of the reasons we might need to see your sweet kitty "Lucky" is if she starts struggling to breath, opens her mouth, starts panting, and has pale or grey gums. These physical signs are what we call "open mouth breathing" and can be very serious.

Let me tell you why.
Open mouth breathing in cats can be a simple stress reaction to a change in environment which will subside if the stressful conditions are removed. Or it can be an indication of a serious condition such as an airway blockage, respiratory disease or heart disease. If you notice your cat struggling to breath or open mouth breathing you should bring "Lucky" to your family veterinarian or, if it's after hours, to an animal ER for care right away.

One type of heart disease that causes breathing trouble might be a thickening of the heart muscle, called hypertrophic cardiomyopathy or HCM, which decreases the amount of blood that is pumped in and out of the heart chamber and increases the workload of the heart. This type of disease, if left untreated, can lead to congestive heart failure and even death. Your family veterinarian may refer you to a Veterinary Cardiologist so your cat can receive specialized care for this condition.

Open mouth breathing might also be caused by a respiratory issue. A foreign body that is blocking the airway, pneumonia, or fluid in the chest are all conditions that the veterinarian will try to rule out as causes to get to the crux of the problem and start treatment.

To diagnose the cause of respiratory distress the veterinarian will listen to the heart and lungs, take a blood pressure, take x-rays, and potentially perform an ultrasound of the heart also known as an echocardiogram . Your cat may need to be hospitalized for a time and be on oxygen to help her breath easier. "Lucky" may also need some medications or further diagnostics to monitor progress.

The moral of the story...let the open mouth tell the story and get to the vet right away.

The Facts About Dog Bites

Did you know?
A tough part of our job in an animal ER occurs when we learn that a person has been bitten by a dog either in a direct attack or when trying to break up a fight between two (or more) dogs. The latter is more often the case, and a recent incident lead me to search out an article that came across my desk earlier this year.

The Coalition for Living Safely with Dogs (CLSD) released the results of a study in May on the dog bite incidents in Colorado from July 2007 - July 2008. The CLSD partnered with the Colorado Association of Animal Control Officers (CAACO) for data collection and contracted with Corona Research, Inc. to analyze the bite data and to create a report on the findings. The project was funded by Animal Assistance Foundation. The CLSD says that "this report is the most rigorous study of its type and the first comprehensive collection and analysis through Animal Control."

I thought I'd share the Key Points and Recommended Actions in this blog. To see the full report you'll find a link to the PDF document on the CLSD website.

1. Most dogs do not bite. Less than one-third of one percent of dogs in the reporting area were reported to animal control for biting a human.
2. Many different types of dogs were involved in reported dog bite incidents. Bites from 129 different breeds of dog were reported to the 17 participating animal control organizations during the one year period of study.
3. Any dog can bite given certain circumstances.
- Running at large (unleashed) was the single most common bite circumstance.
- Many bites were not a result of aggression towards humans, but occurred when a
human intervened in fighting or play between dogs.
- Approximately half of all bites occurred at home, usually when a dog was
protecting property, food, or toys.
4. Whether any breed is more or less likely to bite than any other breed depends on knowing the number of each breed living in Colorado. There are more bites from some breeds than others in the dataset. To draw conclusions about breeds, we need to know whether bites are proportional or disproportional to a breed's population. At this time, there is no dog census for Colorado.
5. Adolescent dogs between one and four years of age were responsible for the most
bites.
6. Children (14 and under) were bitten disproportionately to their population; nine and ten year-old boys were the most common victims. Children were bitten twice as often as would be expected given their proportion of the population.

So What, Now What?
There are some obvious conclusions one can draw from these six key points.

- The worst combination is allowing an adolescent dog to play unsupervised with children 14 and under (especially 9 and and 10 year old boys). Please be sure that proper adult supervision is available to train both the dog and the children about how to "play" with each other.
- Any dog can bite under certain circumstances. As Veterinary professionals we hear many clients tell us their dog would never bite. The tough part for us is that the response of an animal that is nervous and in pain can be very different than when at home with family. So to protect us and your dog we may choose to muzzle when providing medical care.
- Never place yourself between fighting dogs. Avoid getting bit by learning how to break up a dog fight. Here are a couple websites with some good ideas.
http://tinyurl.com/m2d4mz;
http://leerburg.com/pdf/howtobreakupdogfight.pdf (kind of lengthy); http://www.howtoguides365.com/how-to/dog-fight/
- Keep your dog on a leash in a public place.

The moral of the story...stay cool and stay safe.

Top of the World

Did you know?
After talking about heat stroke last week you may find it strange that I'd write about taking your dog on a hike up a 14,000 foot mountain in the Colorado Rockies. We locals just call them "14'ers". Over 500,000 people will visit the Rocky Mountain peaks this summer and many will take their dog(s). It sounds like a great idea to have your favorite companion accompany you on such a feat, but there are some things you should know to keep you and your furry friend safe and ensure a successful round trip back to your starting point.

Let me tell you why!
Just as it is a good idea to prepare for yourself for an all day hike the same careful planning should go into what your dog may need. Some thinking ahead may save you from carrying your 60 pound furry friend off the mountain.

1) Leash laws: There really is a leash law on the majority of the trails up to the 14'er summits. The leash law is for the protection of your dog and the other people on the trail. There is a pretty good chance of running into some kind of wildlife on the trail and it would be bad for "Lucky" to take chase. Often times the trail is on a cliff edge or next to a scree field (aka talus or loose rock) and your dog could get seriously hurt taking off after a pica or mountain goat. If you decide to let your dog be free be sure he is well trained and have a leash handy if other dogs come around. Be warned that if you get caught the fine is $200!

2) Dog booties: The most common injury to dogs on mountain hikes is torn pads on their paws from the jagged rocks and rough dirt paths. Imagine your worst blister and then consider having that on the bottom of your foot and walking on rocks or through the dirt. Yup, painful. To prevent these injuries get your dog a pair of dog booties. REI has some or you can go to dogbooties.com; ruffwear.com; or ultrapaws.com. I am in no way affiliated with any of these sites. I've just heard and read of successful use of these brands for mountain climbing dogs.

3) Altitude sickness: Logically it seems plausible that dogs can get altitude sickness just like their humans, but none of our vets have actually diagnosed an animal with altitude sickness. However, here are some signs to look for:

• Increased panting or difficulty breathing
• Change in gum color - kind of dull or grey
• Stumbling or staggering
• Mentally foggy - just doesn't seem to be there

If you notice any of these signs have your dog drink some water and then head back down the mountain. Returning to a lower elevation should decrease the symptoms. If they continue, head straight to the vet's office.

4) Water and Food: Just like you need lots of water and food to sustain you on the long hike to the summit so does your dog. Some dogs can wear a pack and carry their own water. Check Amazon.com for multiple options of styles and sizes to fit your dog. Dehydration is no fun for you or your dog and can be a precursor for heat stroke if left unchecked.

5) First Aid: It's best to be prepared. See my May 31st post on disaster preparedness. It's a good idea to have a basic first aid kit on hand that includes a guide for emergency response (for dogs and their humans).

6) Timing: Weather is unpredictable in the mountains and storms can move in quickly. The smartest thing to do is get started early in the morning so that you summit the 14'er in time to get back to the trailhead by early afternoon. Colorado is notorious for afternoon thunderstorms and the last place you want to be is on the side of a mountain completely exposed to the lightening strikes with no where to hide. Plus, many dogs are sensitive to lightening and thunder and it would be unfair to have them out in such a storm.

7) Cold and Hot: Another aspect of the weather is the temperature. Really hot days can lead to hyperthermia and heatstroke. Really cold weather can lead to hypothermia and frostbite. Either way you should be aware of your dogs response and make accommodations. For the heat let your dog indicate when he/she needs to stop for a bit to rest and be sure to provide lots of water. For the cold consider getting a fleece jacket of sorts that will warm the dogs core to stave off the chill.

I'm sorry this post is long, but hopefully this info will prepare you to have a fabulous time hiking with your furry friend.

The moral of the story...as the Carpenters sang, a dog's love really can put you "at the top of the world looking down on creation".

I'm...Too...Hot!!!

Did you know?
Our cool weather for the month of June has given us quite a reprieve from the heat this spring, but as the temperature climbs with the official start of summer remember that you aren't the only one who needs to find ways to keep cool. Overheating in animals is a serious problem and can happen much sooner for dogs and cats than in people. Unlike humans, dogs and cats don't sweat beads of perspiration. Our furry friends use panting to cool off. Cats may also lick their fur for the evaporative effect to try to cool down. If they can't cool down their temperature will start to climb and can lead to hyperthermia or heat stroke. Heat stroke can happen in a short amount of time and can cause dire consequences.

Let me tell you why!!
A long run, being outside in direct sun without water, or being confined in a hot unventilated area can drastically increase an animal's body temperature. Be especially cautious about leaving your dog, or cat, in the car while you run into a restaurant or store. Invariably that 1-2 minute errand turns into 10-20 minutes. According to The Weather Channel your car acts like an oven when the sun is shining on it. And keep this in mind: if the outside temperature on a warm, sunny day is 90 degrees the temperature inside a car left in the sun in 10 minutes will climb to 113 degrees, in 20 minutes it will be 120 degrees, and in 30 minutes will be 133 degrees! Normal body temperature for dogs and cats is between 99 and 102.5 degrees F. If their body temperature rises above 103 - 104 they start to get in trouble.

We tend to see dogs in the ER for overheating and heat stroke more so than cats because of the tendency to over exercise or confine dogs vs. cats. Animals more prone to heat stroke include those with a heart condition, animals that are overweight, dogs or cats that have a thick coat, or breeds with short faces, also known as brachycephalic (e.g. Pug, Pomeranian, Bulldog, Boston Terrier, Persian, Exotic shorthair, Himalayan) . These animals all have a particularly difficult time keeping cool and need some extra consideration. For all animals remember to provide shade, plenty of water, and an opening into the house or other cool shelter to get out of the heat.

Rethink taking your dog for a run when you are mountain biking even if the temperature is 70 degrees. The dog will try hard to stay with you and the first sign of trouble you may see is when the dog collapses.

Besides collapse, other signs of heat stroke include heavy panting, excessive drooling, bright red gums, pacing, staggering, and weakness. Immediate veterinary care is vital to provide a chance for recovery. On your way to the vet place cold wet towels on your pets belly and apply rubbing alcohol or cold compresses to the pads of their feet to help lower their temperature.

Treatment for heat stroke is intensive and the majority of cases we see the outcome is not good, mainly because of complicating factors or waiting too long before seeking medical attention. Time really is of the essence.

Moral of the story...when it comes to heat stroke, prevention is worth a pound of cure.

The Ants Go Marching One by One

Did you know?
Summer is synonymous with ants. Though none of us like to admit it, I'm sure we've all had trouble with ants at some time. They seem to appear out of nowhere, marching to and fro in a long black line having found some tasty food source in the pantry or on the kitchen counter. One of the methods used to stem the ant take over are the little traps. The ant crawls in, takes some of the bait, crawls out and takes it back to the nest to die. But, what if your pet finds the trap and chews it up. Is it dangerous? Maybe, but not for the reason you might think.

Let me tell you why!
There are a variety of ant traps on the market. Most contain a small percentage of a substance poisonous for the ants, and a large percentage of a sugary or greasy substance to attract the ants to eat the poison. For instance, the packaging on Raid Ant Baits lists n-ethyl perfluorooctanesulfonamide .5% and 99.5% inert ingredients. The .5% is so small that there is no danger to your animal if ingested.

Other traps contain a chemical commonly used to kill fleas and if ingested is just as benign. The inert ingredient for the Raid trap happens to be peanut butter. So of course, your dog smells a treat and tries to chew it up to get to the peanut butter!

So if an ant trap is ingested, the main concern is the potential for obstruction if the object or container becomes lodged in the stomach or intestines. If your dog chewed up one of the plastic traps and consumed some of the sharp pieces we recommend you feed several small pieces of bread or other type of fiber that can help the pieces pass through the animal without harm. Keep an eye on him/her to make sure eating, drinking, and defecation all continue as normal. Also, you can expect some vomiting and maybe even a little diarrhea from eating a non-food item. If the vomiting or diarrhea becomes persistent and your dog's attitude or behavior changes, get in to see the vet right away.

The moral of the story...don't let those ants march all over you.